Studio Masterclass: Eleven Strand Plait

Creating an 11 Strand Plait:

To create an 11 strand plait, you first need to create a 5 strand plait, which has been explained and simplified below:

1. If your hair is prone to tangling, start by detangling your hair thoroughly.  Take a clean section of hair you wish to plait. Make sure you leave two sections of hair either side of this section, as these will be added to create your 11 strands. 
2. Split this section into 5 equal strands. Imagine the strands are numbered 1-5 from left to right.
3. Cross strand 1 under strand 2, then over strand 3. Pull tight.
4. Cross strand 5 under strand 4, then over strand 1.
5. Pick up a small section of hair from your hairline on the left side and add it to strand 2.
6. Cross strand 2 under strand 3, then over strand 5.
7. Pick up a small section of hair from your hairline on the right side and add it to strand 4.
8. Cross strand 4 under strand 1, then over strand 2. 
9. Repeat steps 6-9 until you reach the nape of your neck.  In general terms, you cross the leftmost/rightmost strand under the one next to it, then over the middle strand, adding in little bits of hair from your hairline as you go.
10. Once you reach your neck, continue plaiting the 5 strands in the same pattern, and secure with a hair-band/ kirby grip.
11. Next, take one of you sections from either side of your 5 strand plait. Split this section into 3 strands, as you would to create a normal plait.  Start by plaiting once normally, then before beginning the next section, find the first outer loop of the 5-strand braid and poke your fingers through.  Now pull the closest outer strand of the 3-strand braid through that loop, weaving the two braids together.  Continue this process until you reach the bottom of the plait, and then repeat with the other section.
12. Once you have completed your 11 strand braid, secure with a small hair tie and loosen by gently pulling on the braid.  This way, you will really be able to see the plait structure.
     

Five Strand Plait

11 Strand Plait

Timed Assessment Images

Classic Shapes and Silhouettes

This studio session was all about Sleek Hair. After we had blow-dried and straightened the hair, we created sleek ponytails and cross over styles.

Equipment Needed:

Water Spray

Paddle Brush

Denman Brush

Pintail Comb

Blow Dryer

Straighteners

Shine Serum

Hairspray

Hairband

Bobby Pins

Creating Sleek, Straight Hair:

1. Start off by brushing through your models hair, making sure the hair is knot free.  After this, spray the hair with water until it is damp.
2. Blow-dry hair working from back of the head toward the front with a flat paddle brush or penman brush.  Aim the blow dryer in a downward motion towards the hair, this will help lay the hair cuticles flat and prevent frizz from forming.
3. Next, straighten one to two-inch sections of hair at a time working upwards.
4. Once all the hair is straightened, run a shine serum through the hair using your fingers.

Creating a Sleek Ponytail:

1. Put your fingers at the crown of the head and gather up a large section of hair from the front of the head.  Make sure you are in a position to move around the head.
2. Run your hairbrush over the section you have pulled up, making sure that the hair is pulled tight with no bumps.
3. Gather the bottom section of hair into your hand with the top section, brush hair upwards making sure it is also neat.  The ponytail should be sat at the crown of the head.
4. Once all hair is neat, secure with a hairband or bungee.  A bungee is best for sleek hairstyles as it doesn't pull the hair which causes bumps.
5. To finish, spritz some hairspray over the ponytail and comb over the style to get rid of any bumps and flyways.

Sleek, Cross Over Style:

1. Start with dried and straightened hair.  Take a section of hair from the middle of the head, taken roughly from around the temples and clip this out the way.
2. Take a small section of hair from the front, sides of the head either side.  Comb these back, making sure they look sleek and secure with a kirby grip.  Cross the hair over at the back and secure one grip through the other to create a secure hold.
3. Next, take the section at the front and gently rest this over the cross over sections at the back.  Not only will this cover the grips but create a chic, polished look to the style.
4. To create a more punk style, you can backcomb this front section to give lift and volume.

Natural Beauty Hair

Equipment Needed:

Paddle Brush

Mousse

Sea Salt Spray

Hair Dryer (with Diffuser)

Hairbands

Kirby Grips

Pins

Creating Beach Hair/ Messy Waves:

1. Give your models hair a good brush through, making sure the hair is knot free.  Using a paddle brush is great for this. 
2. Take a small amount of mousse and run this through the hair using your fingers.  Mousse will give the hair extra volume, hold and a shiny "just-washed" sheen.
3. After this, spritz the hair with a sea salt texturising spray.
4. Now, scrunch the hair as it dries, you can either let hair air-dry or use a diffuser on your hair dryer.  Diffusers are attached to the end of hair dryers to protect hair from direct heat, allowing you to dry your hair without damaging it.  If using a hairdryer take small sections of hair and scrunch it into the diffuser, holding until the hair is dry.
5. Once you remove the hair from the diffuser, you should be left with a messy wave to the hair.  However, this may depend on your models hair type.
6. If you need to add extra waves to the hair, create messy curls with a curling iron. The secret is not to create perfect curls, so use a curling iron with a bigger barrel.
7. Lastly, run your fingers through hair to break up the curls. You can put a bit of shine serum on the hair also but this step is optional.

Chignon with Textured Hair:

1. To start, take your pintail comb and two sectioning grips.  First, use your comb to create a middle parting and then section the hair from behind the ear, leaving a fairly wide section either side at the front of the head.  Taking the hair left at the back, gather it at the nape of the neck and secure with a hair band. 

2. Twist the hair upwards, not too tightly and secure with kirby grips.  Using your pintail comb, shape and volumise the the hair, gently pulling outwards.  Once you have created your desired shape, secure with hair pins.

3. This style is all about a messy, un polished look.  I allowed some hair to fall around the face to create a boho chic look and made sure the chignon wasn't completely sleek at the back.

Plaiting for Fashion

Equipment Needed:

Paddle Brush

Pintail Comb

Dry Shampoo

Hair Pins

Small Clear Elastic Bands

Creating a Wiggle Plait:

1. Start by taking a clean, square section of hair.  Split this section into 3 smaller sections and create a plait as normal.  Don't make the plait too tight, but not too loose either.
2. Once you have plaited the hair, hold the middle strand down and push the other two sections upwards.  This creates a wiggle effect.

Wiggle Plait

Wiggle Plait

Creating a Waterfall Plait:

1. Starting near your hairline, pick up three strands of hair, as if you're starting a French plait.
2. Cross the strand closest to the top of your head, over the middle section.
3. Cross the bottom section over the new middle section.
4. Cross the new top section over the new middle, and then the bottom over the middle.
5. Drop the middle strand down, so it blends in with the rest of your hair.
6. Pick up a piece about the same size from the top of the head.
7. This strand becomes your new top section, cross it over the middle to continue the braid.
8. Cross the bottom strand over the new section, repeat these steps all the way around your head.
9. With the remaining, create a normal three strand plait and complete by securing with a bobby pin or small elastic band.

Waterfall Plait

Creating a Slip Tie Knot Braid:

1. Begin by parting the hair into a centre parting, or simply brush all the hair back off the face.
2. Take a section from the front of the head. Smooth the sections out and tie a simple knot (right over left) then hand each section to your models right & left hand to hold.
3. Take another section directly behind your last section.  Tie another knot - right over left - then hand those to your model to hold.
4. Take a third section behind the last and repeat the last step.
5. You now have three strands on each side.  Because you're working with a round head, once you get to the top of the ear you will take diagonal, forward sections.
6. Now, take another section behind the last section.  Before you tie a knot, reach under the 2nd and 3rd section and pick up the first section at the front of the head and add that to your 4th section. Now tie another knot.
7. Repeat this process, taking sections behind your last, reaching under the last two strands and picking up the front strand, adding to each section and then tying a knot - right over left - until you finish with your braid.
8. To finish this braid, you can continue all the way to the bottom of the nape.  However you can also finish just above the nape and tie the hair into knots or finish however you desire.

Slip Tie Knot Braid

Slip Tie Knot Braid

Creating a 5 Strand Plait:

1. If your hair is prone to tangling, start by detangling your hair thoroughly.  Take a clean section of hair you wish to plait.  
2. Split this section into 5 equal strands. Imagine the strands are numbered 1-5 from left to right.
3. Cross strand 1 under strand 2, then over strand 3. Pull tight.
4. Cross strand 5 under strand 4, then over strand 1.
5. Pick up a small section of hair from your hairline on the left side and add it to strand 2.
6. Cross strand 2 under strand 3, then over strand 5.
7. Pick up a small section of hair from your hairline on the right side and add it to strand 4.
8. Cross strand 4 under strand 1, then over strand 2. 
9. Repeat steps 6-9 until you reach the nape of your neck.  In general terms, you cross the leftmost/rightmost strand under the one next to it, then over the middle strand, adding in little bits of hair from your hairline as you go.
10. Once you reach your neck, continue plaiting the 5 strands in the same pattern, and secure with a hair-band.

Five Strand Plait

• Note: If you are aiming to create a messy, editorial style look.  Instead of pulling and loosening the hair to create a messy style,  take a small, coarse piece of fabric and rub this over the hair.  This will not ruin the overall look, but give it a textured effect.

Modern Hair Up and Adding Accessories

In this practical hair session with Lottie, we learnt how to add accessories to a simple chignon up-do.  As this is quite a simple style, adding accessories gives the look a little something extra.  The chignon looks great on all ages and is a great style for weddings, or to accompany a light, soft make-up look.

Equipment Needed:

Paddle Brush/ Denman Brush

Sectioning Clips

Pintail Comb

A Hairband

Kirby Grips

Hair Pins

Dry Shampoo

Hair Accessories 

1. To start, take your pintail comb and two sectioning grips.  First, use your comb to create a middle parting and then section the hair from behind the ear, leaving a fairly wide section either side at the front of the head.  Taking the hair left at the back, gather it at the nape of the neck and secure with a hair band. 

2. Twist the hair upwards, not too tightly and secure with kirby grips.  Using your pintail comb, shape and volumise the the hair, gently pulling outwards.  Once you have created your desired shape, secure with hair pins.

3.  Taking the sections left a the front, bring these back over the chignon and secure with grips/pins.  These front sections of hair can be twisted, plaited or left natural depending on the look you are going for.

4. Once you have created your chignon, its time to add your chosen accessories.  I experimented with various accessories including flowers, jewellery and small hats.  When applying these, think about where and how you want them to be placed, as sometimes you may need to pin the front sections of hair before or after your accessory is where you want it.

Volume and Lift inspired by 50s, 60s, 70s

The Bouffant, brushed under bob and short, waved hair were popular in the 50's,  popular film stars like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor influenced these kind of styles.  Whereas in the 60's,  the American's First Lady Jackie Kennedy influenced a whole generation with her elegant outfits and bouffant up-do it, was all about the Beehive and short, sharp cuts.  During the 1970's Liza Minelli’s short feathered cut in Cabaret (1972) and Jane Fonda’s androgynous shag hairstyle in Klute (1971) could be seen in various forms throughout the decade, centre parting and asymmetrical styles were popular.  

1970's

1950's

1960's

 Image Credits: Pinterest. [ONLINE] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com. [Accessed 31 January 2015].

The hairstyle I chose to create was from the 1960s.

Equipment Needed

Paddle Brush

Pintail comb

Dry Shampoo

Curling tongs

Sectioning clips

Kirby grips

Hairspray

1. When creating this hairstyle, the process would usually begin with blow drying the hair.  One-day hair is best to work with when creating this style, but if your model has freshly washed hair, give the hair some texture by spraying the hair with dry shampoo. 
2. Firstly, take your pin tail comb and create your first section of hair, this should be at the back and top of the head.  To create this hairstyle you would usually use heated rollers, when using rollers you need to make sure that the section of hair is no wider than the roller itself.  However, during my practise l I used a set of curling tongs.  Pull the hair forward, place the end of the hair in the tongs and roll down.  Hold the tongs for roughly 10 seconds, this may vary depending on the thickness of the hair, then release and secure with a small sectioning slip or a kirby grip.
3. Follow this process downwards, around the top and crown of the head.  Once you have completed all your sections, these leave to cool for 5-10 minutes.
4. Once all of the sections have cooled,  gently take the clips/ grips out and backcomb them gently to create volume and lift.  Always back-comb with precision, this will create a better looking overall style, and will help your model when it comes to brushing out the style.
5. Gently tease and move the hair into the position you want it, then secure with kirby grips.  Smooth over the hair with a comb and finally finish with a layer of hairspray. 

Creating Volume in the Hair: Blowdry

Voluminous hair is a key look with the fashion and beauty industry, one of the best ways to give the hair volume is by blowdrying it.

Tools Needed: 

- Water Spray

- Heat Protectant & Mousse (if desired)

- Paddle Brush

- Round Brush

- Pintail Comb

- Sectioning Clips

- Curling Tongs

- Hairspray

1. To start the blow drying process, spray the hair until fairly damp.   For a voluminous blow-dry, add some mousse throughout the hair too, from the roots to the ends.
2. Once your products are applied, rough dry your hair with a hair dryer. Rough drying means that you use no brush.  You want to make sure that the hair is about 80% dry, hair takes shape from damp to dry, there is no point in trying to create shape or volume while the hair is still soaking. 
3. Next, divide your hair into clean sections. You don’t want them to be too big or messy; they shouldn't be wider than the width of the brush.  Start with the sides or the back, just make sure that the hair you aren't drying is clipped out the way.
4. Take your hair dryer, making sure that the nozzle is attached, as this will easily direct heat. Start at the top of the section of hair, placing your round brush under the hair at the roots.  Lift the brush up high, drying underneath and on top to create lift.  Once you have dried the roots, gently pull the brush through the mid section of the hair and then through the ends, turning the brush slightly as you go. Remember: Always hold the hair dryer in the same direction of the hair, this will give a smooth and sleek finish with no fly-aways. 
5. After this, work your way all around the head in tiers—the bottom and then the next row and the next row above that.
6. Once you get to the crown, be sure to dry this in upwards motions, this is where you want the most volume. 
7. If you wanted to set the hair, after you have dried each section, you have the option of using the cool setting on your dryer.  Simply go over the section with cool air, which will set the hair in place. 
8. Once you have finished blow drying the hair, take some curling tongs, and loosely curl the ends.  Using a tong with a large barrel will give the best effect when create a voluminous blow dry.  You can also back-comb the hair slightly using a comb to give even more volume, but this is optional.  Another way of adding volume is crimping, however you should always make sure the crimping is done purely at the roots and is well hidden.
9. To complete the style, spritz with some hairspray.

Volume at the crown

Volume at the roots

Added curls at the ends

Finished Look